Tuesday, 23 December 2014

May came...

‘We remain upbeat and optimistic however and will be in Sydney next Tuesday come what may…’

And indeed we were! Not long after posting the last blog, we received a phone call from the auto electrician (didn’t know those sorts of people really existed) to say our campervan was fixed. Full of trepidation at the potential bill, we trudged across the bridge to the garage (or Auto-Electrician Diagnostic And Remedial Centre possibly?). After regaling us with all the tough, complicated and wonderful work he had valiantly done to get our camper back on the road, none of which meant anything to either of us – something about alternator bearings that he’d had to shoot – he calmly said ‘that all comes to…$359 plus change’.

With the insouciant air of a Del Boy or Arthur Daley, I asked ‘Discount for cash?’ He seemed somewhat surprised that a Pom could suggest such a devious thing and responded with ‘$300?’. A deal was hastily struck and we drove off, much relieved, having expected some desperate tale involving at least four figures and a weekend in Moruya, which, nice as it is, didn’t figure heavily in our itinerary.

Anyway, we made it that night to a lovely spot called South Durras, where we saw a family of kangaroos calmly noshing away at the grass just feet from our campervan.

The next day we moved on to Huskisson in Jervis Bay, with the most wonderful sand and beaches and bay and seasidey things, plus a lovely restaurant called the Stonegrill, where they serve the food on hot rocks and you cook it to your own preference – great for steak lovers, bit of a no-brainer for the average seafood dish. But it’s also a BYO – bring your own booze, so an excellent evening involving three courses each for $74 – about £38.

As we were slightly flush as regards our itinerary, despite the unplanned stop in Moruya, we decided to have two nights in Kiama, just south of Sydney, to organize ourselves before meeting our house sit victims people.

Kiama is a lovely part of NSW, with more gorgeous beaches and amazing surf. We spent a day watching the surfers brave massive rollers and reading (us, not the surfers) on the beach.

On the way to the house we were going to sit in for three weeks, we called in on Holly’s restaurant – The Portico in Killara. We have to confess we drove past it about four times trying to find out where we could park (bleedin’ car park height restrictions), but eventually managed and Holly was surprised and delighted to see us, to the point of treating us to lunch – Manager’s Shout, she called it!

We then went on to meet our ‘hosts’ Peter and Michal, who were charming and treated us to a lovely dinner after showing us the ins and outs of looking after their three chooks and their lovely house. Michal flew off to Israel early the next morning, but Peter had one more day at school (I vaguely remember that) before he could set off.

On the Wednesday, we set off intrepidly for Bondi Junction to find the health food restaurant that Emily is running (a means to an end). After having to work out a completely new route into the centre, courtesy of a burst water main at the train station, we turned up – once again in time for lunch (coincidence? we hear you ask…). We had a lovely and healthy lunch before making our way to the Opera Bar and yet further iconic photo opportunities (would that be the settings, the opportunities or the photos that are iconic? Answers on a postcard).

Thursday saw us all on our own with three chickens and a rampant vegetable garden. Omelettes, eggs scrambled and fried are on the menu continuously. Not much else happened, but we spent the day cleaning and clearing and sorting. Did very little on Friday, although I spent nearly 40 minutes working out how to pump up the tyres on Peter’s bike before we went for a short explore of the area.

Went into the centre of Sydney on Saturday and frequented a couple of Emily’s pervious places of employment – Hemmesphere and Jamie’s Italian, where we enjoyed wonderful hospitality and victuals. Say no more…Sunday was another quiet day and we went into Bondi again on Monday for a day on the beach and dinner with the girls to plan Christmas day.

Sad news about a couple of true legends of theatre and music – Billie Whitelaw and Joe Cocker (listening to Mad Dogs and Englishmen as I write this).

Also can’t leave this blog without comment on a couple of events that have rocked the Australian psyche recently. The first was the tragic death of Philip Hughes, the Australian batsman. I was taken by surprise at how personally Australian people have reacted to this sad event. Cricket, despite the attempts of Aussie Rules and rugby league, is still the national sport and Hughes’s death became a symbol of everything great about Australians and their approach to life/sport. The sad truth is that he was a very good batsman with a flaw in his technique against fast bowling, but to listen to everyone in the days after his death he was close to having Bradman-like skills. Sadly, I suspect the same, or similar would have happened if it had been a young English player.

The other thing we experienced was the outpouring of grief after the Martin Place siege. When we went in to central Sydney on Saturday, the sea of flowers had stretched in a carefully- arranged flow about 150 yards from the first tributes. The right wing in Australia did and are still doing their best to make capital out of what they are still trying to call a terrorist attack. The truth is that it was a heartless and cold-blooded murder by a self-seeking psychotic who exploited his Middle-eastern background to obtain maximum publicity. If he had been from any other ethnic group (including white Caucasian), it would have been sensational headline news for only a couple of days and the grieving would have been much more restrained and private. Politicians and commentators are still desperately trying to keep it at the top of the news because it suits their anti-terrorist/liberty-restricting agendas. Rant over.

Been shopping today for Thursday. That’s about it really. Wishing everyone a happy and joyful Christmas and a peaceful and healthy new year.

PS.  Gillie here.  Doesn’t he go on??  I admit it has been very ‘over the top’ but the flowers smelt lovely!!  I can’t believe Andy hasn’t mentioned the highlight of our day today (apart from finding the last turkey in Sydney!) as after shopping, we went to get some petrol and paid $1.06 a litre, about 55p!!!!  Have the prices gone down in the UK, as it’s been big news here?
We really can’t believe it’s Christmas Eve tomorrow, the turkeys have disappeared but other than that the supermarkets are calm and peaceful.  We head over to Emily’s tomorrow with Molly full of Christmas goodies, storms are forecast for the big day, so we are keeping our fingers crossed.  Holly is working Christmas Eve but will join us for all the fun on Christmas Day after a good kip!  We return here on Boxing Day as we have our chicken duties to attend to!  (Our experience in the chicken department will look good on our c.v.s)

We’d like to thank everyone who has shown an interest in our travels and wish you all a lovely, lovely Christmas and a peaceful and safe New Year.  G.  xxxx


Who you lookin' at?

shell seeker 
sand - as opposed to snow-man

all together for Christmas

Relaxing after 13,206 km!

Guess where?

two of our three responsibilities

Doesn't look right, does it - the Christmas tree and summer togs!

Back at Bondi
well..?

Friday, 12 December 2014

Lots of ups and some downs…

Somewhat obscure heading for today’s post. It’s been a while, but we’ve done a fair deal since the last post. I’m sitting in a Salvation Army (Salvos) internet cafĂ© in the picturesque town of Moruya, NSW. This isn’t a planned stop, but we are waiting for the news on Molly who is undergoing surgery at the moment – new alternator bearings at best, in which case we’ll be off at 5.30 ish. New alternator at worst, in which case we’ll be here for the weekend.

From Robe, where we had some lovely food and too much drink in a great pub – The Caledonian Hotel (The Cally), we moved on to Portland, where we saw our first koalas in the wild and an unexpectedly amazing sunset. We then drove to Port Fairy and a great walk around Griffiths Island, where we saw some fantastic beaches and lots of dead mutton Birds or Shearwaters – they die knackered from their flight back from the Antarctic or somewhere, too tired to go and get grub.

Our next few days saw us drive along the Great Ocean Road, which is absolutely breathtaking – some real ups and downs and round and rounds. Great views, similar in parts to Big Sur in California, but that’s for another day…

Barwons Head was a surprisingly lovely park, with secluded sites overlooking the sea and a nice bar at the end of a short walk. Need I say more?

From Barwons Head we drove to a north Melbourne suburb, via Geelong – not a drive I’d care to repeat. The campground was surprising comfortable, at the end of a tram line into the city, so we went in and met up with one of Andy’s ex-students, Eleanor, on a wild, wet and windy Wednesday, before going Christmas shopping on a warm sunny (!?) Thursday. Melbourne is a fascinating, diverse city, with loads of really cool bars and restaurants in hipster suburbs, plus gardens, river, loads of good history stuff and places to go.

On the Friday, we took advantage of the free guided walk – three hours around Melbourne for whatever you think is worth it – and were going to set off back to the camper, when we got a text from Emily who said that her and Holly’s friend John Ross Jones, was expecting us to pop in for a drink at the bar he runs, Sake, on the waterfront. So we had to go. Thanks JRJ, your hospitality and knowledge of sake and Japanese beer is unrivalled I’m sure!

We eventually reached another of Andy’s ex-students’ apartment in the ‘sought-after’ suburb of Richmond. Charlotte and her flatmate Kate put us up for two nights and we had a completely marvellous time drinking too much on Friday, exploring the city with Charlotte on the Saturday – when we dropped in again on JRJ and went to the wonderfully-named ‘Naked For Satan’ rooftop bar, before chancing upon a cinema just about to show ‘Pride’, so we went in and enjoyed it very much indeed. Touches of Full Monty/Billy Elliott (not that musical shite). A genuine English feelgood with top performances throughout.

We took our leave of Charlotte and Kate and headed down the Mornington Peninsula in not-very-nice weather, before pitching up in a campsite in Sorrento just outside Rye – named after Gillie’s forebears! It was a horrible site with public loos and no kitchen, so we sloped off early without paying the extortionate sum of $35!!! (if you’re reading this Mr Mornington Peninsula Shire – it’s a rip-off!

We cheered ourselves up by walking to the end of the Peninsula to a place called Nepean Point, which has loads of fascinating history as a gun barracks with remains of gun emplacements – big mother f£$%^*s and stuff. We also marked the spot where a serving Australian Prime Minister, Harold Holt, went for a swim and was never seen again. This was in 1967. Shame David Cameron doesn’t go swimming much…

Phillip Island next and a lovely place where you can sit and watch up to 1000 Small Penguins hazard the seemingly endless stretch of beach from the sea to apparent safety in the dunes every evening to bring food to their young, or shagging – depending on their inclination at the time. Couldn’t take photos, but it was lovely to see these tiny – most about 10 inches tall – creatures brave the expanse of sand and then get into the dunes and spend hours wandering around in a re-make of the Spike Milligan Q8 sketches ‘what do we do now?’ moments.

We also managed to get a glimpse of sea lions at the tip of Phillip Island in a place with the wonderful name of ‘The Nobbies’. It was the less-than entrancing Lakes Entrance next, followed by a place laughingly called Eden, which did not live up to its name. We were intending to reach Jervis Bay tonight, but events are currently conspiring against us. We remain upbeat and optimistic however and will be in Sydney next Tuesday come what may…

PS…At the moment we’re keeping our fingers crossed!!  However we knew we would have ups and downs and we are being positive and dwelling on all the good things that are happening e.g. we’ve just secured another house sit in Sydney 29th Jan to 10th Feb, so in the 3 weeks between house sits we’ll be exploring the east coast, and going as far as the Whitsunday Islands which I visited over 30 years ago and are absolutely magnificent.  

The latest house sit is in a place called Chipping Norton near Liverpool!! (sound familiar?) a suburb west of Sydney.  We were thrilled to be offered this 'sit' as we hope to sell 'Molly' while we are there.  We’re still enjoying all the wildlife, yesterday evening I looked up from my kindle to see 3 kangaroos frolicking in the grass beside our camper..awww!  We know why this state is called New South Wales as it is so green, lush and full of rolling hills and mountains, just beautiful.


Next stop Christmas, we’ll be sending a universal email when (not if) we get to Sydney.  The girls and us are already in discussions about menus etc, so all we need is good weather, as Emily has experienced 2 wet Christmas days!!  At least we know Summer is coming and we have lots to look forward to.  We’ve just found out you can Google us now – Andy & Gillie blog!!  Take care everyone xxxxx. G

Kevin - well what else would we call him?

Another sunset

Some of the 12 Apostles, and Gillie

A well-earned pint!

Once a drama student...

At the Harold Holt Memorial, Nepean Point - honest!

Friday, 28 November 2014

Milestones and landmarks – and more lovely people

Here we are in the quaintly-titled Robe, SA. Not sure why it’s called that, but it has a lot of history and very attractive stone buildings. Perhaps you could Google it and let us know!

We have progressed over 1500 km since the last post, but in a kind of up-and-down, zig-zaggy way and have once again been fortunate enough to experience the kindness and hospitality of people in this spectacular country.

Two days after leaving Ceduna, we arrived in Port Lincoln and liked it so much we decided to celebrate our two month – from leaving England – anniversary by having lunch there on the Friday. While we were there we went for a walk along yet another jetty and encountered a sea lion swimming nonchalantly very close to shore, so we followed it for a while before it decided to continue its frolics further out to sea!

We also came across a couple we have been tracking unintentionally since Norseman. They are in their late 60s and have been touring from Tasmania for about four months, taking in Alice Springs, Uluru, WA and more. They are travelling by motorbike. By motorbike, with a small tent and just enough storage space for a few clothes and daily rations. Every time we met them, they had friendly words and were permanently cheerful. When we last met, they were off the next day to swim with tuna!

The day we left Port Lincoln, Saturday 22nd, we passed our 10,000th kilometre for the trip to date. There’s a picture of the very spot below. It’s much like 9,000 others. (joking).

Lowly Point was our next stop, just past Whyalla. Both areas are stunningly beautiful looking one way and blighted by massive steelworks and power stations looking the other. Lowly Point was more or less a free site ($5) and had a beautiful sunset. The power station looked spectacular at night, but the wind was fierce! We also saw our first snake, crossing the road near where we sat enjoying a glass of wine. I’m reliably informed it was probably a Brown Snake – not to be messed with…

Auburn, in the heart of the Clare Valley wine region, clearly had a lot going for it, but we met it on a quiet Sunday. The campsite was the friendliest we have come across, with a ‘Happy Hour’ when all the campers (or most) gather for a drink and a yarn about 5 pm – earlier if the men have their way, apparently – around a table. Main topic of conversation – the price of fuel. We got lots of very helpful information from the travellers – some of whom had been ‘on the road’ for four years!

While we were on our way to Auburn, we got a phone call from our friend Sally’s step-brother Peter, who lives in Adelaide. He and his wife Nora very kindly invited us to stay with them in their beautiful house for a couple of days while we had a look round the city.

Needless to say, we jumped at the opportunity and drove up to their place on Mount Osmond on the Monday. To say the house is lovely and the views are spectacular would be an understatement. It’s right up near the top of Mt Osmond and from their balcony you can see across Adelaide to the sea.

Our eternal thanks to Peter and Nora, their son Lockie and daughter Pip, who gave up her room while we were there, for their kindness and friendship, lovely food and general wonderfulness, not to mention washing machine, sparkling shiraz and eggs from the hen coop at the bottom of the hill!

We stayed with Peter and Nora for two nights and had a look around Adelaide, which is a charming city that we will certainly want to come back to when we do our trip into The Red Centre…

We took our leave reluctantly and moved on to another free site – Frank Potts Reserve in Langhorne Creek, before moving on to Robe, where this post started.

PS. It’s been noted that there’s been an absence of ‘Gillie” in the blog, so here I am!! (I’m still here!)  I’m going to be doing a regular PS to let you all know what’s REALLY going on. 

Needless to say we’re having a wonderful time and still can’t believe we’ve been allowed to do this!  We feel as free as birds and wake up every morning looking forward to our next adventure.  I’m mostly navigating, which so far has been easy as there’s really only been one way to go, except for Perth and Adelaide.  Melbourne next week and then Sydney will tax my skills, however a few yoga moves from Emily and Holly will relieve the tension. 

Yes we are still talking to each other, about what, I don’t know, seeing as we’ve been joined at the hip for over 2 months.  However in our quieter moments I zip out the crossword book and the kilometers fly by while engrossed in the cryptic clues.  We are sooooo looking forward to seeing the girls, rumour has it I’m using my ‘count down to Christmas’ Good Housekeeping knowledge to whip up a turkey and all the trimmings on Emily’s balcony overlooking Bondi Beach.  (We’ll see about that!!) 


Well ,that’s enough from me for now, it’s Friday, so it’s down to the local bookshop, where we’ve discovered they have a garden and sell wine and beer……just like the Oatsheaf……bye for now xxxxxGilliexxxxx

Some pelicans

10,000 kms - much like 9,999 others!!!

Peter, Nora, Lockie and Pip Willis - thanks so much

A snake - honest!

Ok, so we got a bit lost...

pigs in the city!