Friday, 29 January 2016

-Let’s go -We can’t -Why not? -We’re waiting…

Well, not quite for Godot, but at times it has seemed a bit like that as we while away the hours in Naples, Florida. It’s not that Naples, Florida (you have to say that in the USA, much like London, England) is in any way an undesirable place to be becalmed. But since January 2nd, we’ve been sitting out some of the worst weather El Nino can throw at us – or indeed anyone. And doing it in a motorhome, no matter how roomy and comparatively spacious compared to some we have experienced over the last 14 months, is a bit like living in a baked bean tin, without the epicurean pleasure of the beans themselves to eat.

So, first the news: our lovely Molly Too will soon be on her way to her new owner. After some fraught experiences in which we were offered the full asking from various offshore marine engineers (heard about that scam?), as well as being offered a selection of guns to the equivalent value (!) and a half-acre of land in Lehigh Acres (yes, us too), we were contacted by a very interesting (I’m sure he won’t mind us referring to him in this way) chap called Wayne, with whom we proceeded to do a mutually-beneficial deal.

He came to see it in torrential rain, we found the title after a considerable amount of panic on our part (Wayne was very patient and helpful); agreed the price; drove us to the bank so that signatures could be notarized and the deal signed off officially. Then he very kindly agreed that we could stay in her until our reservation at the RV park ends on 7th February, when he will come and pick her up and take her onto pastures new.

No doubt a tear will be shed, but we are currently busy finalizing our trip to South America and tying up loose ends here, so we’re just pleased that Molly is going to a good home…

After our last post, we moved about 1.5 miles down the road to an equally unimpressive campground also in Key West, called Leo’s. It rained. A lot. We went to the Southernmost Point In The USA. It Has To Be In Capital Letters So You Know How Important It Is. It’s actually not even the Southernmost Point. That’s in a nearby naval base. Ho Hum.

Having 24 hours to kill before we checked in to our Final Destination in the USA (it’s all a bit Significant to us at the moment), we decided to go back to earlier tactics that we had so enjoyed on the West Coast and parked up, after one of the worst/wettest/hurricanest drives in the history of Bad Drives, at the Miccosukee Casino – our Last Freebie. And the sun came out as we shared their RV Parking Area with about a dozen other travellers and drank a glass or three (it was Friday night) watching another lovely sunset.

The drive to Naples was uneventful and we checked in for the last three weeks. We’re only a short cycle ride from the beach and a couple of bus journeys to Downtown, so we have been making something of our stay here in between ‘showers’ (for showers read torrential 10-hour long downpours).

We’ve also been listening to a lot of Bob FM a local radio station that plays pretty much non-stop oldies. He’s particularly fond of Steve Miller, Tom Petty, Led Zeppelin and the like, although a bit too keen on Bon Jovi. Every now and then there’s a station ident. that usually takes the form of some sort of witticism. Here’s a sample that we particularly like: ‘Bob flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana’. Think about it.

Actually, just chilling has been quite pleasant, washing the dust from our boots, reading a few more books, learning some more tunes and enjoying some sunshine in between the showers...

So here we are…waiting. It’s supposed to be the dry season, but it’s far from it. We’re keen now to get on our way. No more driving (except across to Fort Lauderdale for the airport and that’s in a hire car so doesn’t count), so here’s a couple of statistics:

Distance driven in Australia (Molly One): 18,210 km = 11,315 m
Distance driven in New Zealand (Mog & Meg): 7,044 km = 4,377 m
Distance driven in USA West, Canada & USA East (Molly Too): 16,607 m = 26,726 km

Total distance driven: 51,980 km/32,299 m
Think our carbon footprint is a bit big…about a size 18?

There are a few other stats we could bore you with, but won’t bother (is that a collective sigh of relief we hear?). We still have a lot of km/m to cover in Peru, Chile and Argentina, but somehow, this feels like a bit of closure, especially as someone else is going to be behind the wheel.

A few more ‘fond’ observations:

Casinos. These have been brilliant letting us stay in their parking areas (lots), where there are always several other like-minded souls. They haven’t been very prominent on the Eastern seaboard, but we found one in Florida (see above). Obviously, they have a vested interest in letting us park overnight for free, but we’ve never been tempted to try our luck. They’re all owned by Native American Indian tribes, so different rules apply. It’s a bit weird walking through these places early(ish) in the morning, to see people sitting in front of slot machines, drinking beer and smoking, who may well have been there all night. And they’re studying the screens for some sort of sign. It all looks like gobbledegook to us, but what do we know?

Fishing. Everyone does it.

Frozen Custard. Had some in Naples, Florida. It’s basically soft, but not Mr Whippy (remember them?)-soft ice cream and it is quite yummy.

Motorbikes and bikers. Lots around and there are some truly awesome machines out there.

Noisy vehicles. There is obviously no statute against making AS MUCH NOISE AS YOU POSSIBLY FUCKING CAN, no matter what you’re driving. A bit tedious at times…

That’ll do.

So, we’ll be signing off from the English-speaking world for a while. The next post will be from yet another continent, in some distant time…

Hasta la vista xx

PS.  We did think that our last three weeks were going to be spent relaxing on a sun kissed beach, but as you now have gathered El Nino knew better, ah well you can’t win ‘em all!!  It wouldn’t have done us much good any way would it?  We’d be all wrinkly, with sand everywhere, also we’d have been so fed up of the sun we probably would now be cancelling our trip to Spain, France and Italy this summer through lack of interest! 

So instead we’ve been reading up on South America, booking Airbnbs and bus trips and Andy has even opened his Spanish phrase book to wow me with his pronunciation and accent…  He has also unpacked his ukulele and serenades me each day (also most evenings!) with his own unique versions of ‘Hallelujah’, ‘Summertime’, ‘Times they are A-changin’, ‘Werewolves of London’, ‘Sunny Afternoon’, ‘Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door’ etc. etc. So watch out when we get back, just don’t encourage him!

I, on the other hand, have spent my time wisely by reading, reading and listening to the ’Archers’Omnibus’ (bliss) as well as cooking a series of culinary delights and deciding whether or not to go to ‘Walk Away the Lbs’ at 11.30 am.  After our ‘rest’ we are really looking forward to new adventures for the last five weeks of our trip.  We are ready for anything!!
Take care. Hasta luego.

Gillie  xx 

The sun sets on Key West

Waiting for gin

So it says...

Let's go. We can't. Why not? We're waiting...

These are actually vines!

'So there I was, just waitin' by the side of the road...'

The USA's smallest post office, apparently

There's lots of 'gators in them thar swamps. Just waiting for us to get out of the camper!

Check out the sign!

Gone fishin'. Everyone does!

Saturday, 9 January 2016

What next?

Hope you all had a lovely Christmas and New Year and our best wishes to any of you who had to fight the floods. Hope the waters are receding now.

Since our last post we have entered a new phase of The Big Adventure – the trip home is only two months away, so we are kind of in a temporary endgame. Feels a bit weird, but we still have the South American Adventure to look forward to…a rough estimate has us spending about six days travelling by bus through these countries. But that’s all in the (not too distant) future!

Christmas 2015 was a very subdued affair, although our neighbours at Fort Myers, Ken and Janet, very kindly invited us to join them for drinks in the afternoon, before we went back to our barbequed turkey. With sprouts and stuffing, we hasten to add (but forgot the gravy!).

We spent a lot of time on the beach at Fort Myers in the time between Christmas and New Year and found out about the fireworks on New Year’s Eve. Well, who can resist fireworks? So we scrubbed up and caught the trolley bus to the beach, where we proceeded to have several snifters at beach-side bars during a long and pleasant evening. Just before the witching hour, our hostess handed round a variety of sparkling hats and noisy things, which we happily blew on. Then we walked/staggered the 15 feet from bar to beach and watched a spectacular firework display from the pier less than 100 yards away.

Now, in terms of scale, I’m sure people (not least Holly and Emily) would argue that Sydney, or even London, would outdo the humble offerings of Fort Myers Beach, but by golly, they were completely awesome and in a great setting. Certainly one of the best firework displays we have seen.

Unfortunately, we had to move on the next day. That was fun. As it was a Friday, we didn’t particularly want to spend it in Walmart, so had booked a night at Flamingo campground, deep in the heart of The Everglades National Park. It was very hot, but we arrived about 4.30 and as soon as we stepped out of the camper were assailed by swarms of mosquitos. Needless to say, Gillie spent as little time as possible outside the vehicle.

We spent some time the next day exploring bits of the Everglades and saw several wild American Crocodiles – only about 1500-2000 live in the ‘Glades and are quite rare, but protected. Fascinating to get up close to these relics from the age of the dinosaurs.

As Walmart wasn’t going to welcome us with open arms the next night, we stayed next door – in ‘Home Depot’ – the B&Q of the US. Same colour scheme too. The next morning, a chap in a truck told us he wouldn’t ‘even let his wife shop there’ as the neighbourhood was very rough and we were lucky to still be there! !! !!! !!!! (still trying to deconstruct the comment – ‘even let his wife…’)

Anyway, we are still here and made our grateful way onto the Florida Keys – more specifically Key West, as far south as you can get in the ‘contiguous’ USA, to arrive at Boyd’s - by far the most expensive campground we have encountered in more than 15 months of travelling. Gird your loins TripAdvisor…

It is kind of iconic to be at The End of the Road near the end of our ‘marathon’ (also a town just up the road from here) drive around large parts of the English-speaking world, so, at risk of getting all whimsical and welling up, I’ll just take the liberty of imparting some fondly-meant observations of things we have noted during our travel across this mighty continent.

To all our North American reader(s), we hope you will read these in a spirit of amused comment, not of criticism. We have loved North America and hope to be back to see much more of it in the future. This isn’t the last post before S America, by the way, just thought I’d make a few non-itinerary related comments early.

Beer. Now, I think I can speak from a position of some authority here, having sampled a wide range of local brews, not only in Australia and New Zealand, but also in Canada and the US. As commendable as some of these efforts are, particularly in relation to the much-overused term ‘craft beer’, there’s still something about cellar-temperature, flat British real ale. And no one will convince me that even the best efforts of these New Worlders are preferable.

Boating/fishing/outdoor pursuits. Everyone either does it or wants to do it.

Diet. There seems to be a preponderance of fried and fast food, which can’t help the nation’s drive against obesity.

[Direction] indicators. To paraphrase the song by Edwin Starr: ‘what are they good for? Absolutely nuthin’. Say it again'. Drivers in the US by and large don’t seem to realise what that other stick on their steering columns is for, as they rarely use it, preferring to simply pull out in front of you or turn without warning.

Cellphones (and using while driving/pumping fuel – I refuse to say gas) – ubiquitous and very disconcerting/annoying/alarming (delete as appropriate).

Friendliness. With very few exceptions, we found people across the country to be friendly, helpful, polite and solicitous of our well-being. We were particularly struck (no pun intended) by the gentleman on the N’Orlinz streetcar suggesting that it wasn’t worth walking to the French Quarter in the middle of the day ‘you don’t want to get knocked on the head for the sake of a dollar’. In the middle of the day FFS!

Gillie’s name – it’s surprising how difficult many Americans found Gillie’s name! We had Ginny, Jenny, Julie, even Jimmy, plus as many variations as you can put on those. Even when we told people her full name – Gillian – they still struggled to comprehend that anyone could have such a strange name…

Interstates – as rarely as possible, but when we did travel on them we found the experience mutually stressful. The rule of give way to those already on the carriageway doesn’t apply and braking Molly Too at 55 mph is NOT the same as braking in a saloon car. Trust me, I know.

Language – Yes we all know the Oscar Wilde quip about ‘two countries separated by a common language’.  Nuff said.

Public/Campground ‘restrooms’. Still find the idea that you go to the loo to relax or ‘rest’ quite novel but…Having experience of a wide variety of public conveniences across North America, the most common concern/fault is the lack of privacy they afford. Almost all have walls and doors that end about a foot from the floor, allowing all and sundry to check on the state/colour of your underwear, while many have doors that barely reach shoulder height, enabling any who feel so inclined to check up on you during your daily act of worship. Not good.

Shuffleboard. Sort of a warm weather curling without the excitement.

Sport on tv. Also ubiquitous – even at the petrol pump. But alas, no real sport such as cricket and rugby.

Trump D – see comment on indicators

Walmart. Although the Walton dynasty is eye-wateringly wealthy and apparently pay their employees slave wages, by and large we found these people (Walmart employees, not the Walton family) to be charming, cheerful and helpful in the extreme. And we were very grateful that all but one that we asked allowed us to stay overnight in their car parks. Imagine asking at your local Tesco or Sainsbury!

PS.  Hello from way out in the middle of the sea (ocean!!)  I can’t get my head around the fact that we drove for two hours after leaving mainland Florida, across a series of islands joined together by bridges, to get to where we are now.  In the middle of the sea but still in the US, wow!!  The Keys have got a definite Caribbean feel, down to the chickens and roosters running all over the place.

However instead of muddy tracks and shanty type houses, there are motorways and plush hotels.  Downtown Key West is quite funky though, with a beautiful waterfront to admire the sunsets, two theatres and loads of bars and restaurants.  As it’s now Friday we will shortly be catching a local bus into town to sample the wares at the many ‘happy hours’ on offer!  We’ve been using our bikes to get around as it’s so flat here and nowhere is far away, but we thought it wiser to catch the bus! 

We head on to our next site on Sunday, not far away but nearer the beach and the town, also it’s $20 a night cheaper than this place, paradise comes at a price here.  Next Friday we head back to the mainland to begin our longest stay yet, three weeks in a beautiful town by the sea called Naples! 

We decided on this long stay, as we need to sell Molly during this time and thought it would be easier if we were in one place for a while.  So fingers crossed we get a good response, we’re putting her on Ebay on Sunday…eek!  Just before I finish I must tell of the most amazing thing we found at our lovely Christmas campground… you won’t believe it but it had a WASHING LINE!!!!!!!! Bliss.  In our experience the only campsite in North America to provide one!
Happy washing.

Bye for now, much love to all.   G xxx

The 'biblical' view from our campsite in Fort Myers

It really was this close!

'Long and not-so-winding road' - to Key West

Rather pleasant way to enjoy Christmas Day

Beer? See post

Stan our friendly egret

Quite a lovely place for New Year's Eve fireworks

Hmmmm...

Ooh missus!

Just chillin'

Just chillin' II

Sunset at the end of the road

Enjoying a drink at the world-famous (apparently) Sloppy Joe's